Fairy lights — string lights, Christmas lights, or festoon bulbs — are one of the simplest tools for creating stunning bokeh backgrounds, warm atmospheric portraits, and dreamy creative photography. Used in-frame as props, behind the subject as bokeh, or wrapped around the subject as illumination, fairy lights add a magical quality that is hard to achieve any other way. This guide covers the technique, camera settings, creative methods, and advanced approaches to fairy light bokeh photography.
Understanding Bokeh
Bokeh is the aesthetic quality of the out-of-focus areas in a photograph. When point light sources (such as fairy light bulbs) are rendered out of focus, they become soft, luminous discs — the characteristic "bokeh balls." The size and shape of these discs depend on aperture (wider = larger), distance (closer to the camera or farther from the subject = softer), and the lens design (more aperture blades = rounder discs).
Essential Equipment
- Fast lens: A lens with a wide maximum aperture (f/1.4-f/2.8) is essential. The 50mm f/1.8 (the "nifty fifty") is ideal — affordable, sharp, and produces beautiful round bokeh. The 85mm f/1.4 or f/1.8 is even better for portraits.
- Fairy lights: Warm white LEDs are most versatile. Micro-LED copper wire lights are thin and easy to position. Larger globe lights produce bigger bokeh balls. Battery-powered lights give freedom from mains cables.
- Dark environment: Fairy light photography works best in low light — the darker the ambient, the more the lights stand out. Shoot indoors with room lights off, or outdoors at dusk or after dark.
Camera Settings
- Aperture: Wide open — f/1.4, f/1.8, or f/2 for maximum bokeh. Stopping down reduces bokeh ball size.
- Focus: Manual focus or single-point autofocus on the subject. In low light, autofocus may hunt — switch to manual and use live view magnification.
- ISO: 400-1600 depending on ambient light and shutter speed needs. Modern cameras handle ISO 800-1600 cleanly.
- Shutter speed: Fast enough to avoid motion blur — typically 1/60s to 1/200s for stationary subjects. With a moving subject or handheld shooting, faster is better.
- White balance: Tungsten or 3200K for warm lights to appear natural. Auto white balance may overcorrect the warm tones.
Technique 1: Fairy Light Bokeh Background
Place fairy lights behind the subject at a distance — ideally 2-4 metres behind, draped across a wall, hung from a frame, or arranged in a cluster. Position the subject close to the camera (1-2 metres). Shoot at wide aperture. The lights behind the subject render as soft, glowing bokeh discs. The further the lights from the subject and the wider the aperture, the larger and softer the bokeh. This is the classic technique for portrait sessions, engagement shoots, and holiday photography.
Technique 2: Fairy Lights as Subject
Have the subject hold the lights — cupped in their hands, draped over their shoulders, wrapped around their head, or dangling from their fingers. The lights illuminate the subject from close range with a warm, intimate glow. Shoot close-up with a wide aperture to create shallow depth of field, so some of the lights are in focus and others blur into bokeh within the same frame.
Technique 3: Fairy Lights in a Glass Jar
Stuff micro-LED lights into a mason jar or glass bottle and have the subject hold it. The glass diffuses and refracts the light, creating a lantern-like glow. This is a popular prop for creative portraits, still life, and conceptual photography. The jar becomes a self-contained light source and an atmospheric centrepiece.
Technique 4: Foreground Bokeh
Hold a string of fairy lights directly in front of the lens — between the camera and the subject. The lights closest to the lens render as large, soft, luminous washes of colour, framing the subject in a dreamy haze. This is the same principle as shooting through flowers, branches, or prisms — the out-of-focus foreground element adds depth and atmosphere. Experiment with wrapping lights loosely around the lens hood for a consistent framing effect.
Shaped Bokeh
Cut a small shape (heart, star, diamond, Christmas tree) in a piece of black card and hold it in front of the lens as a filter. The out-of-focus fairy lights take on the shape of the cut-out — hearts for Valentine's Day, stars for Christmas, or custom shapes for creative projects. The shape must be cut cleanly and the card must cover the entire front of the lens except for the cut-out shape.
Post-Processing Tips
- Boost highlights slightly to make bokeh balls glow more intensely.
- Add a touch of warmth to white balance for a cosier mood.
- Reduce clarity or add Orton glow for a softer, dreamier feel.
- Desaturate slightly for a muted, filmic quality, or boost saturation for vivid, festive images.
- Vignette gently to draw the eye inward toward the subject and the lights.
Fairy lights are the simplest path to magical, atmospheric images — affordable, endlessly versatile, and irresistibly beautiful when rendered as soft glowing bokeh.
A string of lights, a fast lens, and imagination. Explore the portfolio.







