A pinhole camera has no lens — only a tiny hole that admits light and projects an image directly onto the film or sensor. The result is infinitely deep focus, a soft ethereal quality, and extreme wide-angle perspectives that no lens can replicate. Pinhole photography is accessible to anyone, costs almost nothing, and produces images of surprising beauty. This guide covers the science, the construction, the technique, and the creative possibilities.
How a Pinhole Works
Light travels in straight lines. A tiny aperture allows only a narrow cone of light from each point in the scene to reach the film, forming an image without refraction. The result: everything from a few centimetres to infinity is in focus simultaneously — infinite depth of field. The trade-off is that very little light enters, so exposures range from seconds to hours. The image is softer than a lens image because diffraction at the pinhole edge spreads the light slightly, but this softness is part of the aesthetic.
Optimal Pinhole Size
The sharpest pinhole for a given camera-to-film distance (focal length) is calculated with the formula: d = 1.9 × √(f × λ), where d is the pinhole diameter, f is the focal length in millimetres, and λ is the wavelength of light (approximately 0.00055mm for green light). For a 50mm focal length, the optimal pinhole is about 0.35mm. Too large and the image is blurry from overlapping light cones; too small and diffraction dominates.
Building a Pinhole Camera
Materials
Any light-tight container can become a pinhole camera: a shoebox, a biscuit tin, a 35mm film canister, a coffee can. You also need a piece of thin brass or aluminium foil for the pinhole plate, a pin or fine needle, black tape, and photographic paper or film for the "sensor."
Construction Steps
- Paint the interior of the container matte black to eliminate internal reflections.
- Cut a small square hole (about 10mm) in one wall — this is where the pinhole plate will go.
- Drill or punch a tiny hole in a piece of brass shim or thick aluminium foil using a fine needle. Sand both sides gently to smooth any burrs.
- Tape the pinhole plate over the square hole from the inside, ensuring a light-tight seal.
- Create a shutter — a piece of black tape or card that you can remove and replace to control the exposure.
- Load photographic paper (or film) opposite the pinhole inside the camera, emulsion side facing the pinhole. Do this in complete darkness.
Exposure Calculation
Pinhole cameras have very high f-numbers — typically f/150 to f/300. To calculate exposure: meter the scene at f/16, then multiply the shutter speed by the square of the ratio (pinhole f-number / f/16). For example, if your pinhole is f/200, the factor is (200/16)² = 156×. If the scene meters at 1/125s at f/16, pinhole exposure is 156/125 ≈ 1.25 seconds. For paper negatives (ISO ~3-6), exposures may run from 30 seconds to many minutes. Reciprocity failure adds further exposure time — double or triple the calculated time for exposures over 1 second on most films.
Creative Techniques
Solargraphy
Leave a pinhole camera with photographic paper exposed for weeks or months, aimed at the sky. The sun traces bright arcs across the paper — one arc per day — recording the changing path of the sun across the seasons. No chemistry is needed: the paper is simply scanned after exposure. Solargraphs are one of the most striking forms of long-exposure photography, documenting the passage of time in a single image.
Multiple Pinholes
A camera with multiple pinholes produces multiple overlapping images on a single sheet of paper, creating dreamlike, fragmented compositions. Place three pinholes in a curve for a panoramic triptych effect, or scatter them randomly for a cubist-inspired fractured image.
Anamorphic Pinhole
Curving the film plane inside the camera — using a cylindrical tin, for instance — produces extreme wide-angle images (up to 160°) with natural barrel distortion. The effect is dramatic, immersive, and impossible to replicate with conventional lenses.
Digital Pinhole Photography
You can convert a digital camera to pinhole by making a body-cap pinhole: drill a small hole in a spare body cap, cover it with a pinhole plate, and mount it on any interchangeable-lens camera. The camera's sensor replaces the film. Live view makes composition and exposure preview straightforward. The results retain the characteristic softness, vignetting, and infinite depth of field of a traditional pinhole, with the convenience and immediacy of digital.
Tips for Better Pinhole Images
- Use a tripod or stable surface — exposures are always long.
- Bracket exposures generously — pinhole exposure is imprecise, so take three shots at different times.
- Shoot in bright conditions for shorter exposures and sharper results.
- Try both paper negatives and film — paper gives a unique tonal range and can be contact-printed.
- Experiment with camera shapes and focal lengths — each produces a different field of view and character.
The pinhole camera is photography at its purest: light, time, and a tiny hole. No glass, no electronics, no autofocus — just physics and patience producing images of haunting beauty.
Simple craft, timeless results. View the portfolio.







