Yana Skakun
Yana Skakun
There's a particular kind of magic to a marquee wedding. One moment you're shooting in flat afternoon light spilling through canvas, and a few hours later the same space is glowing like a lantern in the middle of a Suffolk field. I've photographed marquees across Cambridgeshire and the surrounding counties for years, and the venues that look most ordinary in daylight often deliver the most cinematic frames after dark. The trick is knowing how a marquee behaves with light, and planning for it long before the first guest arrives.
A marquee isn't a building, and it certainly isn't a barn. The walls are translucent, the roof diffuses everything, and the whole structure changes colour with the sky outside. At 2pm a clear white canvas marquee acts like a giant softbox, giving you gorgeous, even light that's flattering for portraits. But that same translucency works against you at dusk, when the canvas drinks up your ambient light and the interior turns muddy and grey faster than you'd expect.
Our British weather adds another layer. A sailcloth marquee under a bright Cambridgeshire sky feels airy and luminous, but the moment a band of cloud rolls in off the Fens, you can lose two stops of light in minutes. I treat every marquee as a moving target. I'm constantly reading the canvas colour, watching the sky through the opening, and adjusting before the light catches me out rather than after.
During the day, your biggest asset is the marquee's open sides. Most clear-span and pole marquees roll up at least one wall, and that opening becomes your main light source for speeches and daytime portraits. I position couples and key tables so the open side rakes light across faces rather than flattening them head-on. Backs to the brightest opening, faces toward the softer interior, and you get a natural, wraparound glow that needs almost no help from flash.
Watch for colour casts. Green marquee linings, leafy backdrops, and coloured bunting can all tint skin tones, so I shoot a custom white balance or a grey card early in the day and keep checking it as the sun moves. If the marquee has a clear PVC roof or windows, I love using them for backlit detail shots: rings, stationery, and flowers placed near that glass pick up a soft, directional light that's impossible to fake.
The hour either side of sunset is where marquee weddings earn their reputation. As the outside light drops, the warm festoon lights and interior lighting start to take over, and for a brief window the balance between sky and canvas is perfect. This is when I pull couples outside for portraits with the glowing marquee behind them. A lit tent against a deep blue Suffolk dusk is one of the most reliable showstoppers in the whole day, and it lasts ten minutes at most.
I plan this moment with the couple at the booking stage and again on the day, checking sunset times against the schedule. In high summer that can mean stepping out around 9pm, well after the meal, so I warn caterers and coordinators in advance. Inside, I switch to dragging the shutter, letting the warm festoons and fairy lights register naturally while a gentle flash keeps faces sharp. Done right, the ambient warmth stays intact and nothing looks artificially lit.
Once true night falls, the canvas stops reflecting anything useful and you're working entirely with what's inside. This is where off-camera flash earns its keep. I place a single speedlight on a stand behind the dance floor, bounced or gelled to match the festoons, which separates dancers from the background and adds the kind of depth a single on-camera flash never gives you. Bare flash flattens a marquee; shaped, coloured, directional light brings it alive.
Gels matter more than people think. Most marquee festoon lighting is very warm, around 2700K, so I gel my flashes with a CTO to match. Without it, faces go an unnatural blue against that cosy amber glow. For first dances I'll often add a touch of colour from behind for atmosphere, but I keep the light hitting faces clean and warm. Below are the pieces of kit and planning I rely on at every marquee wedding.
For all the technical talk, a marquee wedding lives or dies on atmosphere, and that's a choice you make in camera. I'd rather a frame feel like the room actually felt, warm, soft and full of glow, than be clinically bright and lifeless. That means trusting the festoons, letting shadows fall where they will, and using flash to support the mood rather than replace it. The best marquee images look like memories, not product shots.
If you're planning a marquee wedding anywhere around Cambridge, Suffolk, or the wider East of England, talk to your photographer early about light. A few minutes spent agreeing where the open side faces, when the festoons switch on, and how long you can steal for dusk portraits will transform your gallery. A marquee gives you a blank canvas, quite literally, and with the right plan it becomes the most atmospheric venue you could ask for.
Planning a marquee wedding in Cambridgeshire or beyond?
I'd love to help you make the most of your marquee, from soft daytime light to that glowing dusk portrait. Let's talk through your day and check I'm free for your date.
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Yana Skakun
Photographer · England
Professional wedding, family and portrait photographer based in England. Passionate about capturing authentic emotions and timeless moments.
About Yana →Yana Skakun is a professional photographer based in Cambridge, covering weddings, families, and portraits across England. Every session is personal — planned around your story, your people, and the moments that matter most. This guide — Marquee Wedding Photography: Tips for Epic Lighting and Atmosphere — is part of the photography journal: practical, experience-based advice drawn from real sessions across England. Whether you arrived searching for marquee or wedding, the same care and attention shapes every session Yana photographs.
Professional Photography sessions are available year-round, with bookings open across Cambridge, Ely, Huntingdon, Peterborough, and further afield — East England, London, the Midlands, and beyond. If you have specific questions about photography, mention it in your enquiry. Get in touch through the contact form above to check availability and discuss your session. Enquiries are welcomed from anywhere in the UK.
For outdoor portraits, shoot in aperture priority mode. Use a wide aperture (f/1.8–f/2.8) to blur the background and isolate your subject. Keep ISO as low as possible in good light. In bright conditions, use a neutral density filter or switch to manual to avoid overexposure at wide apertures.
Golden hour is the period roughly 30–60 minutes after sunrise and before sunset. The sun is low in the sky, producing warm, soft, directional light that flatters skin tones and creates beautiful long shadows. It's widely considered the best natural light for portrait and outdoor photography.
In low light, increase your ISO (accepting some grain), use the widest aperture your lens allows, and slow your shutter speed to the slowest you can hand-hold without camera shake (roughly 1/focal length as a guide). Use image stabilisation if available, and consider a tripod for static subjects.
The rule of thirds divides the frame into a 3×3 grid. Placing your subject on one of the four intersection points — rather than dead centre — creates a more dynamic, visually interesting composition. It's a guideline, not a rule: some of the most powerful images break it deliberately.
Professional editing starts with shooting in RAW format. In Lightroom or similar software, correct exposure, white balance, and contrast first. Recover shadow and highlight detail. Apply gentle colour grading for mood. Be conservative with skin retouching — the goal is natural enhancement, not transformation. Consistency across a set of images is what separates professional from amateur editing.
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